MALTA
Valletta, the gem of the Mediterranean
alta has never really been part of my travel plans until I started looking for a chill destination, ideal for the summer months. We went to Valletta having heard various, mixed reviews and comments but here’s what we did right: we chose a hotel in the center of the city.
In four days we saw just how lively Valletta is, and we fell in love with it.
I can’t stretch enough how important the location of your hotel is. The Cumberland by NEU Collective (€543 for 2 people, for 3 nights) brings you right in the heard of the city, near Triton Fountain and in the main square. We walked day and night among the most vibrant spots, with locals and tourists, between local and tourist shops, cafés and restaurants, we witness people of all ages, all dressed with different styles, enjoying their outing, all because the location of the hotel was so convenient.
One of the most popular attractions is Upper Barrakka, a stunning , public garden leading to the terrace with the arches. The gardens are located on the upper tier of Saints Peter and Paul Bastion, which was built in the 1560s and there you can witness the Saluting Battery on the lower tier. The Saluting Battery was mainly used for firing ceremonial gun salutes and signals marking the opening and closure of the city gates and they still fire the canons to honor their history, from Monday to Saturday at 12:00 and 16:00.
Later on we headed to the harbour – forced to make the long circular walk down as the elevator needed cash – to catch a Dgħajsa. For only €2 per person, you can let a colorful rowboat – basically a gondola – take you to The Three Cities (Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua) but keep in mind that the price is one way. We were stranded at the harbour across until the next gondola arrived. Unlike Venice, the Dgħajsa rides are less like a touristic activity and more of a cheap way to get across. Malta has a more Mediterranean cuisine and that included seafood. I had mussels for the first time and grilled calamari at AZURE Bistro, a nice, small restaurant at Marsaxlokk – a small fishing village famous as the harbour of many, colorful luzzus – the traditional fishing boats.
Basically, if you want to get real, Valletta is a beige city (literally) with a colorful pulse. You can find vibrant spots full of life all over. On our first night we got to witness a band playing traditional tunes, as part of the Maltese Nights fest happening in August at the waterfront, and we loved drinking and singing at Café Society next to our hotel.
But we did leave the city for some trips. For starters we had to visit Mdina, also known by its Italian epithets Città Vecchia (“Old City”) and Città Notabile (“Notable City”) and the famous gate (for the Game of Thrones fans, it’s the King’s Landing gate). Walk in the fortified city, enjoy the alleys, sit in a café to try the traditional imqaret filled with dates, it’s a nice, relaxed stroll but keep in mind there will probably be big crowds.
Don’t leave Malta without trying a pastizz. It’s a Maltese savoury pastry, usually filled with either ricotta or curried peas, often sold in smaller bakeries in Valletta and Mdina. I think your experience in Malta depends on your expectations. If you’re expecting a huge city with countless activities and endless hours of sightseeing, you will be disappointed: it’s a small island with things to do and see, sit back and enjoy your vacation.
If you have the choice, pick a hotel near the Triton Fountain, and if you travel in July / August, check to see if their summer festival is in progress. We enjoyed a night of (free) traditional dances and songs by the harbor. In four days we saw just how lively Valletta is, and we fell in love with it.
