POLAND
Dragons, Christmas and snow in Krakow
rakow is officially the first time I travelled in December to a big Christmas Market destination, so it was bound to be special. The widely praised Christmas Market in Krakow was a good option for something different and fun.
The metal sculpture of the dragon breathes fire every five minutes
First things first, if you’re planning on visiting the city of Poland during the winter, take notice that everything is covered in snow and ice so a big warm jacket or a coat and snow boots are essential. Gloves and winter hats will also come in handy, though there will be times when you will not need them as much. Also, if you’re European, keep in mind that Poland uses zloty, not euros. We went for a quick, four-day trip with only a backpack and event though due to the weather we didn’t get the chance to really explore the city, here’s everything we did and what you must do if you visit especially in December.
Visit the Christmas Market
The Main Market Square will probably be your main reference point. Full of life at all hours, with shops, restaurants and cafés around it, it’s also the square that hosts the Christmas Market! It’s also known as Rynek Główny and when you visit you will come across a big area with dozens of wooden kiosks selling handcrafted goods, Christmas décor, traditional stuff, food, snacks, and drinks from mulled wine to coffees. There’s also a stage where various performances take place. On the inside, you will find even more kiosks with gifts and traditional crafts.
Explore the Wawel Castle
Atop the Wawel Hill sits the castle, considered the most historically and culturally significant site in the country. It was first established during the reign of King Casimir III the Great but was expanded through the years and it represents nearly all European architectural styles of the Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque periods. It was built during the 13th and 14th centuries as a residence of the kings of Poland, and now it works as an art museum with important collections of Italian Renaissance paintings, sculptures, textiles as well as period furniture and armours. Entrance fee varies, depending on the bundle, but it starts at €9.
Discover the Dragon
A metal sculpture of the Wawel Dragon, designed in 1969 by Bronisław Chromy was erected in front of the Dragon’s Cave in 1972. You can find it right below the castle, next to the Vistula River. Every five minutes it noisily breathes fire, thanks to a natural gas nozzle installed in its mouth.
Fun fact: The dragon looks like it has six forelegs when, in reality, it was designed with seven heads.
Now, you will be seeing dragons everywhere as it’s the symbol of the city.
According to the legends, the dragon lived in a cave, at the foot of Wawel Hill and terrorized the village, until the two sons of King Krak defeated it by using a fake cow, stuffed with sulfur.
Visit a Church + Snap a Picture of Eros
You can’t be thinking of leaving Krakow without visiting at least one church. I love to observe the architecture and the interior of churches in Europe, so we couldn’t not visit at least one. There are a few options around the Main Square alone (the famous basilica of St. Mary included) but we went a bit further, to the famous church of St. Francis of Assisi right next to Rynek Główny and it was truly breathtaking. It dates back to the 13th century, but here is no verified source that confirms the church’s founder.
When you get to the Main Square (coming from the church) you will see a big head laying on its side right next to the clock tower. That’s Eros, and it’s one of the most famous landmarks of the city. Often referred to as ‘The Head’, the bronze sculpture’s official title is ”Eros Bendato” (or ”Eros Bound”) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 – 2014).
Eat Traditional Snacks
First of all, we had zapiekanki at Plac Nowy, in Kazimierz (the Jewish quarter of Krakow). It’s a toasted, open-face sandwich made of a sliced baguette or other long roll of bread, topped with anything, really, and served hot with ketchup, mayonnaise, or other sauces. It has been a popular street food in Poland since the 1970s and Plac Nowy is probably the best place to try it. Right in the center of the square there’s a small building which houses a row of canteens doing the best zapiekanki in town.
At the Christmas Market we tried pierogies, the Polish dumpling with various options for filling. I tried the blueberry and sweet cheese option as well as the pork one and both were delicious and surprisingly fulfilling as a meal. Other than that, you should know Poland is also famous for the donuts (paczki). Paczki uses an extra amount of enriching ingredients, yeast, grain alcohol, and high-gluten flour for a richer, much tastier dough than a normal donut. It’s usually filled with custard, jam or lemon curd but we tried the plain one.
If you want an interesting cafe for a hot coffee, definitely try Cytat. It’s a library within a cafe, with thousands of books everywhere (which you can also pick up to read). Bonus points for the Harry Potter-style toilets and the smart mirror design (see picture below).
Climb the Kościuszko Mound
Erected by Cracovians in commemoration of the Polish national leader Tadeusz Kościuszko and modelled after Kraków’s prehistoric mounds of Krak and Wanda. A serpentine path takes you to the top (326m above sea level) offering a panoramic view of the Vistula River and the city. Don’t let the height scare you, we climbed it easily and with it covered in snow, though you will of course need appropriate clothing for the weather. Before that, you walk along the museum, commemorating Poland’s national hero through, admittedly, stunning projectors and displays along with artifacts and texts. Entrance fee is €6.
We stayed at Dominican Square by Hashtag Apartments, an apartment five minutes from the city center – and the Christmas Market, with absolutely everything you may need around you. We paid €243 for three nights and it was definitely one of the best choices we made. Krakow was absolutely beautiful, even when covered in snow. For bigger distances we moved around with Uber but most of the times we walked. If you want a big, not overly crowded Christmas Market, this is definitely it and I’m sure the city is even more beautiful in the summer.