DENMARK
Copenhagen after dark (from 17:30 to 7:30)
his feels more like cheat post, but the experience was so unique and overwhelming I can’t not post about it. We basically spent the night in Copenhagen, but it was so much more than that.
I decided to wake up early to take a stroll around the port, even though it was just a couple of hours before we had to get to the airport.
After leaving Älmhult we knew we had a night in Copenhagen – our plane leaves from Kastrup early morning – so we had to make the most of it. Clearly, I was not able to have a schedule because we were a group and because our time was so limited. Still, there was a new opportunity for something special.
17:30
We arrived at Copenhagen train station – coming from Älmhult – at 17:30 and stepping outside it was clear the weather was just as cold but windier than Sweden. The iconic Tivoli Gardens are closed from early January until March so there was no way to visit that. First impressions were that, it’s a remarkably beautiful city combining modernism in architecture with the old city vibes of Nyhavn and around it.
18:00
In a central, yet quiet neighbourhood, was Hotel Skt. Annæ, our stay for the night. A boutique hotel housed in buildings dating back to the 17th century, with a fabulous inner courtyard and great attention to detail. My single room was small but cute – and perfectly functional with a nice modern shower and a comfortable bed. Every floor has a balcony to the courtyard, with plants and streetlamps on the wall, making it all feel like an old apartments building. I fought the urge to lay down and take a nap because I was in a new city and the bigger part of me wanted to explore as much as possible
Tour the hotel lobby and the room with me, below:
19:00
The hotel was just a 3-minute walk from Nyhavn, the famous waterfront starring in almost every picture of the city. Stretching from Kongens Nytorv to the Inner Harbour, Nyhavn is lined by brightly coloured 17th and early 18th century townhouses and bars, cafes and restaurants. We made a stop at Rajissimo, a shop serving delicious waffles, wafflesticks and churros, because who’s to say you can’t eat dessert before dinner? I had a wafflestick with oreo and white chocolate and it was 100% worth it.
19:45
From Nyhavn we started walking towards our restaurant. The cold weather was persistent even though the winds had calmed down. Still, Copenhagen by night is vibrant and gorgeous. The Light Festival (happening from January 31st to February 23rd) gave us some nice light installations around the city. The road we followed was a bit quieter, but you could still spot bars and restaurants with people enjoying their Friday night, and some sightseeing since we passed by Rosenborg Castle.
20:30
Copenhagen has a few Michelin Guide restaurants, and it wouldn’t feel complete if we didn’t have dinner in one. If you follow this blog, you may know that I’m more of a street-food guy but I couldn’t resist. We arrived at Høst after our receptionist suggested it, for a culinary experience. Høst is the Danish word for harvest and as you can guess, great Nordic ingredients and seasonal greens have a starring role in its menu, served with a sense of both the rustic and the elegant.
Høst is in a classic Copenhagen building on the corner of Nørre Farimagsgade and Ahlefeldtsgade, and here the exposed brick walls and Danish mid-century furniture design reflect the kitchens’ ability to mix the minimalist and the idyllic. Our 3-course set menu ended up being a 5-course with some surprise dishes in-between. We started with mini waffles and a tasty spread with shrimps, then had scallops with apple and currants served in a shell, chicken with spinach and mushrooms and, for dessert, pear with birchbark and white chocolate – possibly one of the most delicious dishes I had in a while.
The whole place is much more casual than you would expect, no need for formal attire. Minimal décor, plants everywhere, a nice atmosphere altogether.
6:00
I decided to wake up early to take a stroll around the port, even though it was just a couple of hours before we had to get to the airport. Nyhavn at that hour is different, peaceful and very cold! The northern side of Nyhavn is lined by brightly coloured townhouses built with wood, bricks, and plaster. The oldest house, at No. 9, dates from 168. Hans Christian Andersen lived at No. 67, between 1845 and 1864 where a memorial plaque now stands. From 1871 to 1875 Andersen lived at Nyhavn 18 which currently houses an Andersen-themed souvenir shop. The tranquillity this walk offered me was incomparable Just me, walking by one of the most famous waterfronts in Europe, still dark outside with the cold breeze. I crossed Nyhavnsbroen and walked a bit on the other side, but it was more residential, so I retreated.
07:30
Was I bummed I didn’t get to explore the city by day? Sure. But now I had the opportunity to try something new as an experience and as a post here. On our way to the airport, I truly understood how Copenhagen can have so many lovers worldwide. It’s such a gem of a city with great and modern architecture and of course the well-known fashion scene surrounding a bustling Old City. Of course it’s already in my plans to go back, if only for the Tivoli Gardens.