ARMENIA
The underrated beauty
of Armenia
rmenia came up when we were looking for a budget destination. I knew Yerevan was beautiful and I knew we’d have the chance for amazing trips from the capital, so when the opportunity came up it was an easy decision…. And it did not disappoint.
We arrived in Yerevan late at night, at our cheap but clean hotel in a dark, urban neighbourhood. Always the first thing on our travels is to check the local stores and / or bakeries for water, coffee etc and, thankfully, we had amenities nearby. On our first day downtown in Yerevan we came across the Cascade, the most famous spot of the city. The building was completed in 1980 using only white travertine stone – the only stone available in a sufficient amount to build this. It consists of five terraces, each with its own art installation, with 572 steps. What I didn’t know was that this building houses the Cafesjian Center for the Arts. I climbed to the top twice, one from the outside – though I didn’t make it to the top – and a second time from the inside, on our last day.
I knew Yerevan was beautiful and I knew we’d have the chance for amazing trips... and it did not disappoint
The second day had us going toward Garni and, my target, Symphony of Stones and Geghard Monastery among other smaller stops, with a quick visit at Charent’s Arch first. There, at the stunning Arch of Charent’s was my first failed attempt to see Ararat from afar. A wonderful (free) spot erected in 1957 to honour the Armenian poet Yeghishe Charent.
The arch was supposed to put the historic mountain in a perfect frame, but the clouds did not do us favours. Garni and, eventually, Symphony of Stones. I was always fascinated by landmarks, natural ones more so. Just below the Temple of Garni we saw the gorge with the basalt columns formed on its walls. The scenery was beautiful, with a stream running down between greenery and those giant walls right and left.
Later, we reached Haghartsin Monastery, in what felt like the middle of nowhere but with a solid asphalt road going round it. This medieval monastery is located near the town of Dilijan and is composed of three churches: St. Gregory’s, St. Stephen and St. Mary’s. There’s always something so hypnotizing about candle rooms and this one was no exception, I could stand and watch candles burning in harmony, in an almost completely dark room for a while. However, I did leave soon to go around the churches and see the old Walnut Tree. Legend has it that if you pass through the opening of the trunk with a dream in your mind, it will become true. I can not verify or deny this, it was packed with tourists taking pictures, I did not have a chance to test it, but I can verify that gata is indeed the simplest, most delicious treat we tried in Armenia. The kiosk nearby had a variety of it, but we chose classic. Our third time eating it, though the previous ones were from local bakeries back in Yerevan. Gata is a local sweet bread made of flour, butter and sugar and baked in different shapes and sizes but the most common is the round one. Traditionally made in tonirs – which are now replaced by regular ovens -it was made to be served at the feast of Candlemas before it became a regular snack.
Our last full day took us to Khor Virap, a last attempt to see Ararat and our biggest bet, since it’s located in the Ararat Plain, near the border with Turkey. Grey clouds and fog refused to surrender, but the location was incredibly tranquil. While waiting for a glimpse of blue skies, we wandered inside, where I decided to go down a steep, metal ladder in a narrow hole on the ground to reach Saint Gregory’s dungeon. An exceptionally brave decision that unfolded with great success until I grabbed the first step I could reach to start going up. In what might have been a millisecond my mind was filled with grim thoughts, including that if I fail to climb up, no firefighter could get me out. A few deep breaths later I said «let’s go» and I indeed let go.
The great relief when I set foot on solid ground, sweaty hands and heart racing guaranteed. Small as it seems, I was so proud of myself for taking the leap, even though I saw myself dying down there for a brief second. We spent the day until midday, sitting outside Khor Virap, with our backs on the wall, watching nature doing nothing and Ararat’s snowy peaks barely visible behind the clouds.
Returning to Yerevan and after a quick stroll inside the Blue Mosque, we returned to the Cascade. It was a whole different weather in the city. I enjoyed an interesting khokhob (chicken served with onions and pomegranate seeds) before heading back to the Cascade, one more gata in hand. As we sat at the top, early evening of our last day in Yerevan, with people around us minding their business, the sun was shining bright and Ararat was seen clearly, far away and behind the city; a moment I truly cherish.
Before out flight back home, we took a ride to Tsitsernakaberd Memorial Complex, also known as the Genocide Monument. The 44-meter high, pyramid-like structure represents the rebirth of Armenian nation and in the centre of it there is the eternal flame – a symbol of mourning. An integral part of everyone’s visit. Next to the memorial, an underground circular museum presents the events that took place in 1915 through a series of photographs that will definitely bring tears to your eyes.
So, was Armenia worth visiting? Absolutely. The truth is, some of the less talked about countries hold so much beauty to be explored and this is a great example.