The perfect 2-day Edinburgh itinerary

SCOTLAND

The perfect 2-day Edinburgh itinerary

T

here’s something about Edinburgh that makes it almost impossible to simply visit without constantly stopping to look around. You’ll think its just another beautiful city until you realize you’ve actually fallen in love with it. This was the case here.

Edinburgh managed to feel both grand and incredibly intimate.

We had two full days to experience Edinburgh (add one more for the Highlands) and I’m proud to say we did an excellent job. Casually walking around without rushing, some shopping, some necessary food stops… the energy is unbeatable, especially around The Mound and the Royal Mile. We also stopped by the Scottish Kilt Company to get our kilts so, if you want to do the same, they have a variety of affordable, quality kilts.

Dean Village + Water of Leith

Dean Village is one of those corners of Edinburgh that feels worlds away from the busy city centre. Tucked along the Water of Leith, this former milling village is known for its charming stone buildings, quiet lanes and picturesque views over the river.

We followed the route of the Water of Leith towards Modern One, made a stop at the gallery then continued towards Dean Village.

Right before the gate to Modern One

To find the famous Dean Village photo spot, head towards Hawthornbank Lane and follow it downhill towards the Water of Leith. As you approach the small metal footbridge, you’ll reach the classic viewpoint, where Well Court and the surrounding historic buildings frame the river. 

But, if you’re up for it and have time, follow the Water of Leith Walkway too. It’s an easy, scenic escape from the city’s crowds, and it will give you frames like the ones above. 

Modern One

Spider by Louise Bourgeois
A World of Pure Imagination by Flora Yukhnovich & François Boucher
Two Men by Lucian Freud
A Girl by Ron Mueck

This is a great stop for anyone interested in modern and contemporary art, and its location makes it especially easy to combine with Dean Village. Housed in an impressive neoclassical building, the gallery features works from artists including Picasso, René Magritte, Louise Bourgeois and Roy Lichtenstein, with free admission. 

The gardens of Modern One

After you’re done, pause for a scone at its cute cafe. We sat outside and it was the nicest break before our day officially started.

P.S. I tried really hard to pick only four pieces to show you here, but Modern One is full of gems.

Tatties + Deep Fried Chocolate

The tatties are a must try
Deep fried Mars and Cadbury Caramel

If you want to experience some of Edinburgh’s comfort food, make a stop at Tempting Tattie on Jeffrey Street. The shop has been serving baked potatoes (known locally as “tatties”) since 1974, turning them into a surprisingly satisfying meal with a huge choice of fillings. 

We had Uncle Sam and the (very) loaded Iron Mike and, let me tell you Iron Mike is a full blown, delicious meal. It’s the kind of quick, unfussy lunch that works perfectly between sightseeing stops, especially when you want something filling without sitting down for a full restaurant meal.

For something considerably more sinful, head to Cafe Piccante on Broughton Street and try one of Scotland’s wonderfully bizarre takeaway treats: a deep-fried chocolate bar. The more famous one is the deep-fried Mars bar but you can choose basically any chocolate. We also tried Cadbury Caramel and it’s far more mouthwatering.

Calton Hill

The Dugald Stewart Monument
National Monument of Scotland
Nelson Monument

Calton Hill is one of the best places in Edinburgh to take in the city from above, and luckily, it doesn’t require a strenuous hike to reach the top, it’s just a short uphill (or two flights of stone stairs).

There, you can find some monuments like the National Monument of Scotland, designed as a replica of the Parthenon in Athens to commemorate Scottish soldiers and sailors who died in the Napoleonic Wars. Construction began in 1826 but ran out of money, leaving it famously unfinished. It is sometimes nicknamed “Scotland’s Folly” or “Edinburgh’s Disgrace”.

Keep in mind that if you want to climb on the National Monument of Scotland, it’s a bit higher than it looks in the pictures and it doesn’t have actually steps (only a rock, placed by people, so you can step on it and climb).

Princes Street

The view of the Castle
The gardens next to the National Gallery
The Scott Monument

More than just a shopping street, Princes Street offers one of the city’s most dramatic views, with Edinburgh Castle rising above Princes Street Gardens on the opposite side. One of its most iconic landmarks is the Scott Monument, a spectacular Victorian Gothic monument dedicated to Scottish novelist Sir Walter Scott. You will find yourself relaxing at the Gardens or by the National Gallery, embracing the vibes, especially if the weather is nice.

Circus Lane

Circus Lane is one of Edinburgh’s most charming and photogenic little streets, tucked away in the Stockbridge neighbourhood. Originally built in the 19th century as a service lane for the surrounding Georgian houses, it has a very different character from the grand streets of Edinburgh’s New Town. The lane is famous for its small stone cottages, colourful doors, climbing plants and overflowing flower pots, which create an almost storybook atmosphere.

It’s one of the most beautiful, Instagrammable neighborhoods of Edinburgh with a surprisingly small number of people just walking by.

Greyfriars Bobby

One of Edinburgh’s most beloved statues, commemorating a Skye Terrier who became famous for his loyalty to his owner, John Gray.

According to the traditional story, after Gray died in 1858, Bobby spent the next 14 years guarding his master’s grave in Greyfriars Kirkyard, leaving only briefly to eat. When Bobby died in 1872, he was buried near the entrance to the kirkyard. His story quickly became part of Edinburgh folklore, and a statue was erected in his honour in 1873.

Today, the statue has also developed its own Edinburgh tradition: visitors often rub Bobby’s nose for good luck. You can see that, though, as its nose has been worn down.

The Elephant House

The Elephant House is one of Edinburgh’s most famous cafés, particularly among Harry Potter fans. Located on George IV Bridge, it became closely associated with the creation of the Harry Potter series and gained a reputation as one of the places where parts of the early books were written. It’s a cute café with a lovely fascination with elephants.

If you want to try something new, order the Butterscotch Beer. It’s basically cream soda with whipped cream but its sweetness if very balanced.

Victoria Street

Victoria Street is one of Edinburgh’s most distinctive and colourful streets, winding through the Old Town in a dramatic curve from George IV Bridge towards the Grassmarket. Its brightly painted shopfronts, curved façades and narrow upper level make it feel completely different from the more formal streets around the city. The street dates back to the early 19th century and was designed as part of an effort to improve access through Edinburgh’s medieval Old Town.

Arthur's Seat + Holyrood Park

Read this carefully: you don’t have to do this, but you should! Holyrood Park has several walking routes offering beautiful views at different elevations. If you do decide to climb, wear comfortable shoes and allow around 2–3 hours for a casual hike with stops for photographs. It’s not an outrageous, exhausting hike, but it’s all uphill and the view is definitely worth it.

Arthur’s Seat is the remains of an extinct volcano, formed hundreds of millions of years ago. The surrounding landscape was later shaped by glaciers, creating the distinctive hills and cliffs that make Holyrood Park feel surprisingly wild despite being so close to the city centre.

The combination of dramatic scenery, geological history and panoramic city views makes Arthur’s Seat one of the highlights of any Edinburgh visit, and one of the best places to appreciate just how closely nature and the city coexist here.

Royal Mile (+ Fringe Festival)

The Royal Mile is the historic heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town, stretching between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Walking along, you’ll pass centuries-old buildings, traditional pubs, souvenir shops and historic landmarks, making it one of the best places to experience the city’s medieval character.

Visiting the Royal Mile during August, however, means experiencing it at its most energetic. The street becomes one of the main stages of the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, the world’s largest arts festival. Street performers, comedians, musicians, magicians and performers from around the world fill the streets, often stopping passers-by with impromptu performances.

We enjoyed street food at The Mound Village with a live performance from Joyful making everyone dance and sing along.

From the dramatic views of Arthur’s Seat to the chaos of the Fringe, the colourful streets of the Old Town and the quieter corners of Stockbridge, Edinburgh managed to feel both grand and incredibly intimate. It’s the kind of city that gives you plenty to tick off your list, but also plenty of reasons to come back and simply wander again.

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